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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.